One foot in North Korea...

I should have taken advantage of my relaxed schedule before January and visited Jeju Island. I would have liked to have gone back to Seoraksan National Park. I could have avoided this whole mess if I hadn’t done the penguin dance-although I did look good doing it. I shoulda, woulda, coulda, but I didn’t/won’t be able to/can’t. Honestly though, I have no real regrets because what I have done with my time in South Korea has been incredible and exceeded my expectations. However there was one thing I had to do before I came home and that was visit the DMZ, and I managed to do that on the 28th March. For those of you who haven’t heard there was a bit of a war between the North and South of Korea way back in the 1950s, and thanks to the lack of a ratified peace treaty it has kind of never ended. The result is the most heavily fortified frontier in the world, the Demilitarised Zone (DMZ), which is two and a half miles wide and 155 miles from coast to coast, located around the 38th Parallel. That “line on a map, nothing more” I wrote about way back in August. Not going to the DMZ would have been like not trying kimchi, not doing a temple stay, not visiting four other countries while I was “in the area” and not doing the penguin dance….very un-Jo.

Not deterred by the fact Kim Jong-il was planning on flexing his isolated military muscles by launching a hotly contested missile/“communication satellite” four of us left Hongseong on the first train into Seoul. Not deterred by the fact I was on crutches and Jun had sat on my bad foot the day before the USO tour we joined two bus loads of people and made our way to the DMZ. It was worth every inflated won and I thoroughly recommend it if you are in the area.

Two members of the Hongseong posse are relatively newbies to this weird and wonderful land, and I found myself on the defensive for some of the day. To be sure, I have had plenty of days when the first flight out of here wouldn’t have been soon enough, but I came here with an open mind, and I have strived to make the best out of what have been some challenging situations. Defending South Korea made me realise just how much this place has gotten under my skin, and it made me so glad that I came here. It also reminded me that if you want to pull something apart you are always going to find a loose thread. English teachers are easy to replace out here, and once you have come to terms with the fact that working in a hagwon is essentially well-paid glorified babysitting the more fun you will have with it. Life is too short to bitch about something you can change so easily. If you can’t take the kimchi- put the chopsticks down, get your arse off the floor and try teaching somewhere else. What can I say, pain makes me cranky....

Ok, so back to the DMZ tour. The early morning train meant we got to see the sun rise over the mountains that surround Hongseong. Me and Viro came over all Korean with an impromptu photo shoot on the train, and I finally got a shot of my favourite sign (see above-yes I know it’s pronounced Shill-ye-won!). After arriving in Yongsan, and getting quizzical looks from all passer-bys, pretty certain Koreans on crutches remain indoors until they are healed, we made out way to Camp Kim where the office for the USO is located. An elderly gentleman helped us out with directions-it’s pretty amazing how far a sprinkling of Korean can get you, and after 11 months of teaching here it becomes so much easier to understand Konglish. A disappointing coffee later and we were on our way, with a tour guide who sounded like he was still slurring from the previous nights soju, but entertaining nonetheless. The barbed wire that lined the river as we got closer and closer to the DMZ served as a stark reminder of the division between the two Koreas.

Our first stop was for a briefing about the DMZ, and offered our first proper glimpse into North Korea. A yellow line on the ground signalled where we could and could not take pictures, though we did have to gently remind Killian of this fact! Apparently we were lucky in that the yellow dust from China didn’t obscure our view into the bleakness that is North Korea. The guide told us about the battle of the flagpoles. In the 1980s the South Korean government built a 328 ft flagpole, in response the North Koreans erected a 525 ft one. North Korea is the proud owner of the tallest flagpole in the world. I am sure that it was worth it. Next stop was a lunch break-bibimbap or bulgogi…at jacked up prices, but delicious all the same. Apparently my crutches served as a handy conversation piece, and an elderly American felt the need to ask me when I would be settling down and getting married, much to the chagrin of his wife and son.

During the 1970s South Korea discovered four incursion tunnels dug by North Korea in an attempt to launch surprise attacks on Seoul, our tour included a trip down the third one discovered-the “Third Tunnel of Aggression.” Discovered a mere 27 miles away from Seoul it certainly puts the alleged poisoning of the North Korean national football team into perspective. Following the 1-0 loss in Seoul last week, the North's football association said the act was part of Seoul's "moves for confrontation" with Pyongyang. Sure…and the tunnels really were coal mines. First off, we had to watch a propaganda video listing details of the confrontation between the two Koreas and making some rather bold claims about how the DMZ is essentially paradise on earth due to the lack of inhabitants. Thanks to my crutches, I wasn’t able to tackle the 300 metre long tunnel, though I did get to rest my aching leg and catch some rays in the peace and quiet.


The highlight of the tour was Panmunjeom which is home to the Joint Security Area, the only place where the North and the South actually connect. We entered Camp Bonifas (named after a U.S. Captain who was killed by North Korean soldiers during the Axe Murder Incident of 1976…over a tree) and our tour was taken over by the U.S. Army. We were given a lecture that skimmed over a few issues, but essentially outlined why this area is so significant. Then we had to sign waivers which reminded us that we were heading into a very unpredictable area, and could result in death or injury (bit late for that). We were driven to the JSA, where I was greeted by my favourite sport-stairs. The lift was out of order, but there was no way I was going to let stairs stand in my way. The Military Demarcation Line runs right through the centre of Panmunjeom, and the JSA was built smack bang on the middle of it. We were being watched by a North Korean soldier and reminded not to make any gestures towards him. It definitely made the atmosphere very tense. A feeling that was maintained until Killian tried to walk around the wrong side of a ROK (South Korean) soldier and got halted with some seriously cool taekwondo moves.



We then made our way into the Military Armistice Commission building, half of which was built on the North Korean side of the demarcation line. The picture above is of me and Viro on the North Korean with our fierce looking ROK soldier who gave Eugenia a fright after she accidentally put something on one of the tables and he leapt into action! Me and Viro were the last to leave the building, and as we made out way back down to the buses I managed to snap this picture…….



…..says it all!

We were then taken to a South Korea/US guard post, and we were afforded a closer look at Propaganda Village (a uninhabited village on the North side of the MDL, which until 2004 blared out North Korean messages-largely consisting of anti-Western propaganda). We were again reminded of the seriousness of the situation-surrounded by North Korean guard posts on three sides. As our U.S. Army tour bus made its way back to the original bus we passed the Bridge of No Return, which served as the port of exchange for POWs in 1953. It literally was the point of no return, once you crossed it into one country you couldn’t go back.


A sombre tour, but worth every won. As we made our way back into Seoul, and then onward to Hongseong if felt like we were returning from a foreign country, and in a way I guess we were. The bright lights and modernity of Seoul made the DMZ seems so much bleaker, and I can honestly say in the 11 months that I have been here I have never felt the tension between the North and South, even with this whole missile debacle. My thoughts were interrupted when I managed to fall over as we were trying to exit the train, again landing on my bad ankle. But I am glad that I managed to go, and hopefully my children won’t be able to-because all this would have stopped.

Viro and Jo Do Thailand.

One of the things I like about leaving South Korea to explore another Asian country is the feeling of familiarity and ease I experience when I come back. The latest time round that wasn’t the case. Partly because I spent the first 24 hours back in Korea vomiting and feeling very crap, and partly because I was aware of the unpredictability and annoyances I am going to face in my next three months. Mainly because of the vomiting though.

I went back to Bangkok for Lunar New Year-or Chinese New Year as it’s more commonly referred to-and this time I had a travel buddy in the form of the lovely Queen V. It was the last perfect “out of Korea” adventure to have before I make my trip to Incheon airport on 28th April 2009 and start my next adventure. And I am grateful I had such a good friend to share it with.

24 January.
Our journey began and ended in an icy, snow covered Hongseong, with a brief and fabulous interlude in hot and sunny Bangkok. Once we arrived at the airport we sorted out Viro’s re-entry visa-and took it nice and easy. Although I think it’s fair to say we were both day-dreaming away to the end of April when we would be back at Incheon with a lot more luggage. Our flight was with Korean Air whose questionable motto is “Excellence in Flight.” I should hope that this is the case for the pilots but as an airline I would give it a “Could Do Better in Flight” motto. For starters the in-flight entertainment did not include mini TVs for each passenger but a big screen per section which was barely visible if you were sat over 5 ft away from it. Normally I don’t find this an issue, but it’s a five and a half hour flight to Bangkok, and apparently I, like most people, don’t have the ability to sleep in an uncomfortable space when the flight attendants are making pointless announcements every 5 minutes. “Ladies and Gentlemen, for your information the sound system works and we will now make this announcement in two more languages. Thank you for flying with Korean Air.”

We arrived in Bangkok at 9pm and I was struck by how familiar everything was. It was as though I had an internal GPS for the city, it was slightly unnerving in a step aside Lonely Liar you have been usurped kind of way. We made our way to Khaosan Road and on to our guest house. Roof View Place was about 10 minutes from the atmosphere of KS Road but clean and friendly with comfy beds and an ensuite bathroom. There was annoyingly loud lovers tiff in the room next door at around 3am-which Viro quietened by banging on the wall, but apart from that it was a great place to rest our weary feet after a couple of long days of shopping!

25 January.
Aware that we only had a little bit of time in Thailand we got an early start and took a tuk-tuk to the weekend market. A ride in a tuk-tuk means that doing your hair in the morning is pointless and ensures that your face is caked in pollution faster than you can say “no stops.” But it’s definitely part of the Bangkok “experience” and since there was only two of us in the tuk-tuk I spent less time with my arse hanging out clinging on for dear life. The weekend market was as sprawling and overwhelming as I remember but I was quickly introduced to Viro’s inner shopper. We were more productive before midday than we have ever been in Korea.

We ate at Oh My Cod, the British café I frequented on my last visit-after 9 months of Korean food point me in the direction of a Cornish pasty, mushy peas and chips and I am happy. I am cheap date! After our fill of food and the BBC we asked a tuk-tuk driver to take us to a jewellery shop, but we quickly discovered that jewellery is cheaper in South Africa. Instead we did some sightseeing taking the tuk-tuk to the Golden Mount, and then we took a walk back to KS road for some more shopping. By this point we were developing a tag system of haggling-the best tactic being “It was …..Baht at the other stall.” After a cheap manicure we made the mistake of following the Lonely Planet in the quest for food, we ending up in a restaurant with three times more waiters than customers and dim lighting in an attempt to cover up an inability to complete orders. After my trips to Taiwan and Japan it was just nice to have company while I ate.

That evening we had a Thai massage. I think the last time I got one, with Sarah, we were being punished for the racket me made when we got the oil massage the previous night because this one was a lot less painful. It was still funny though, and I think the only way to go for a massage is to have someone you know in the cubicle next door. After explaining that we were teaching in Korea Viro was told”잠깐 만요” which means wait a minute. It was a nice feeling being in a different country and being spoken to in Korean and understanding what was being said. Well it was for me anyway!

26 January.
We had a later start to this day, and following a full English breakfast (I am all for experiencing other cultures foods!) we got ourselves trapped with the most annoying tuk-tuk driver in Bangkok. Imagine the most annoying person you know and then imagine them driving you around in a vehicle made from scraps, and refusing to accept payment because they want free petrol coupons, and then imagine an hour with them. We just wanted to go to the shopping malls of Siam Square, but we ended up on a motorway switching tuk-tuks and being asked “one stop?” We had already been to two, so a sharp “No” saw us taken to a shopping mall, and then being ripped off for a journey that should have only taken 15 minutes. Word to the wise, just take one journey for the experience and then take taxis ok!

MBK was an awesome shopping mall, with tons of shops and handicraft stalls. Oh, and air conditioning which is always nice. We stayed there for about three hours and we definitely got more than our money’s worth. We then explored the shops of Siam Square as we made our way to Erawan Shrine to see some traditional Thai dancing. After the tuk-tuk ride that blighted our morning we took a taxi to the Suan Lum Night Bazaar for some more shopping. One reason why I probably couldn’t teach in Thailand-all my money would go straight after I got paid. I was more than happy to watch Viro work her magic, occasionally nagging her to buy more for herself.

For dinner, we had some more Thai Food near KS Road, and decided that Thai Food isn’t anything to write home about, though maybe there is space for it on the blog. It’s not the best cuisine in the world, but it’s probably not the worst either. The best thing about sitting outdoors, aside from inhaling all kinds of fumes from the traffic, was that it allowed us to people watch and by people I mean lady-boys! Bangkok attracts all kinds of travellers, from the young to the old, and from the backpackers to the retired couples. And all of them wear the same clothes, brought off the streets of Bangkok.

After we ate we made our way to a different massage place on the same street as our guest house and we each had an oil massage. Since I spent my last oil massage giggling like an 8 year old who has just discovered that you can write “80085” on a calculator I was interested to see if this would be any different. It wasn’t and the calculator wasn’t wrong either. Me and Viro were once again in neighbouring cubicles and the curtains were strategically placed so we could chat and make sure the other was still awake. Viro’s masseuse mistook sighs of contentment for sighs of pain and switched to “soft-soft” mode, while mine gave my chest area “special treatment.” It wasn’t until afterwards we realised that Viro didn’t get the same attention, and she wasn’t best pleased.

27 January.

The previous night we planned our last day in Bangkok. When we woke up we made an executive decision to just take a taxi to the airport. This gave us more time to begin the sightseeing portion of our trip in earnest. We went to the Grand Palace and took loads of pictures, the buildings were as intricate and beautiful as I remembered. This time round I got to see the Emerald Buddha too, all dressed up in his winter outfit and in an incredibly stunning hall, with elaborate paintings on the wall. Then we took a walk to the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, Wat Pho. On the way numerous tuk-tuk drivers tried to dissuade us telling us it was closed. If this happens to you just ignore it, 9 times out of 10 they are lying because they want to take you for a ride both literally and figuratively. I have four words to describe the Reclining Buddha-very big and shiny. Suffice to say he’s very laid back. Groan.

In a bid to incorporate all the famous types of transport in Bangkok we took a river ferry to the Central Pier. The excessive number of people was explained by the fact it was so cheap. Only love could explain why a middle aged woman on crutches was on the ferry. We made our way to the Sri Mariamman Temple, a Hindu temple built by Tamil immigrants in the 1860s. As the Lonely Planet says “Thai Buddhism still honours its mother religion of Hinduism.” We then had the best meal of the holiday in a restaurant down the street, mutton Biryani. Though in reality it just a precursor for when I visit Viro in South Africa. We took a taxi back to KS road for some more, very chilled out shopping and then made out way to the airport with a lot more than we started with and with some great memories too. The less said about the 28th January the better.

Cheers for the awesomeness Viro! It was more legendary than I was expecting!

Jo Does Japan Part Two.

Kyoto. 29th December.

Picking straight up from Part One, the next day I caught the train to Kyoto…eventually. Korea definitely does train stations better than the Japanese. Although the Shinkansen was more comfortable than the KTX, albeit bloody expensive, the lack of helpful English signage meant I needed help to figure out what platform I needed to be on. Aside from the fact the English Tourist Information Centre at Kyoto Station was closed for the holidays, I preferred Kyoto to Osaka immediately.

I checked into the hostel, despite the crappy directions-why do hostels always assume you have a compass or an innate sense of direction-“Get off the bus and walk west.” After dropping off my bag I started checking out the sights straight away. I was waiting at the bus stop when a bus pulled up and the driver asked me where I was heading, I told him Kinkakuji. He told me to get on and then he chased down the bus I needed. The problem was that the bus I needed would pull away just as I got near the doors, but my friendly driver would just let me get back on his bus and we’d try again at the next stop-around 5 stops later I managed to get on the right bus.

Kinkakuji or Rokuon-ji Temple-or the Golden Pavilion, was absolutely stunning. Despite the hoards of people snapping pictures too, I could still envision it being a peaceful and beautiful place. It seems when I am alone I visit lots of temples-case in point Taipei. My next stop was Tenryu Temple, aka the Temple of the Heavenly Dragon (picture above), which again was very beautiful, and visitors have the added bonus of being allowed to see the inside of the temple too. Plus it was my first sighting of women in kimonos! The combination of the stunning garden, brisk cold air, and understated yet picturesque buildings made the experience very lovely-and surprisingly I didn’t really mind the fact I spend most my time in Kyoto in some kind of temple or shrine. Behind this temple there is a bamboo grove where I managed to get a couple of good pictures-including one taken by an old man on his knees. (Bless.) After the bamboo grove though I managed to get very lost, I stumbled across some shrines, found the main road, and then ending up in leafy suburbia-with proper houses, cul-de-sacs, and a very confused Jo. Just as it was getting dark I found the main road again, and managed to find a bus stop and get back into central Kyoto and back to my hostel after going to another closed attraction.

I should mention the vending machines in Japan. I didn’t managed to get any pictures of one, but they are impressive-not just hot and cold drinks in cans-like the ones in Korea, but cigarettes and alcohol too….I tried to imagine a similar thing in the UK and all I could see was baying mobs of teenagers with hoods and crowbars.

Kyoto. 30 December.

This was the day I got snap happy with the camera. I was very lucky with the weather too-it felt like spring and was surprisingly warm, though obviously my warm is your arctic temperatures! I took advantage of the nice weather and walked to the train station from the hostel and popped into my first Temple of the day, Nishi Honganji Temple which was undergoing major reconstruction work.

Kyoto was the imperial capital of Japan for eleven centuries and was devastated on countless occasions by wars, fires, and earthquakes, but the city was spared from the firebombing during the Second World War. As a result it is one of the best preserved cities in Japan, with 2000 Buddhist Temples and Shinto Shrines, palaces, and gardens. I certainly made it my mission to visit as many of the most famous ones as I could, particularly on this day it seems.

My next stop was Kiyomizu Temple (above and below) which is famous for the fact not a single nail was used in its construction. This is all the more impressive when you consider that the temple is supported by pillars off the slope of a mountain. The views of Kyoto from the veranda were very beautiful and the temple is well used both by locals and tourists. It was also an odd sight seeing Westerners in Kimonos, but each to their own I guess.

The bus system in Kyoto is extremely efficient and easy to use, making sightseeing very simple. I just followed the stops and visited all the sights I wanted, when I wanted. (No, I haven’t got a job for the tourist board of Kyoto) There were two Temples very close to one another that I visited next. Chion-in Temple and Shoren-in Temple. They were both incredible. Chion-in had Koreanesque stairs (it’s all about the stairs) and a massively impressive gate. But I would move into Shoren-in Temple tomorrow if only for the garden (Two pictures below). It once served, briefly, as an imperial palace, and I had it almost entirely to myself. I think being alone for four days had driven me slightly stir crazy, and I had a bit of fun with the 10 second timer on my camera. Good times.

If you have a spare bit of cash, or you just happen to be in the area and want a nice romantic place to visit I recommend the garden at the Heian Jingu Shrine. The beautiful garden definitely served as a friendly reminder of how alone I was feeling. So to cheer myself up, I fiddled around with the ten second timer some more and drained the battery of my camera.

Next, I went to Ginkakuji-or The Silver Pavilion, but I should have turned around at the entrance when I saw the “it’s currently undergoing reconstruction and there is bugger all to see” sign. I then walked around the outside of the Imperial Palace, the park was very much about trees and rocky paths. The sunset through the trees was very fitting though after the day I had. I tried to see some Geishas in Gion but it wasn’t to be, instead couples dressed in Kimonos were being followed by tourists trying to take their pictures as though they were celebrities.

31st December 2008.

I checked out of the hostel, and caught the bus to the airport. I probably could have done a bit more sightseeing but Japan is very expensive and I was pretty content just to chill out at the airport and people watch. From my brief visit to Japan I would definitely want to go back there in the future, but I think I should stop travelling alone. Maybe it’s simply because it was the holiday season but on this trip I was very conscious of how alone I was. It’s not that I am sick of my own company; I think it would just be nice to share the memories with someone else. Still, it’s not everyday you get to be in Japan-unless you are Japanese I guess-and it was a great way to end 2008.

Jo Does Japan Part 1

A last minute booking meant my plans were all very last minute, I wasn’t even able to buy a travel book. Unfortunately, since it was the holiday period I couldn’t find a hostel online in Tokyo, so instead I went to Osaka and Kyoto. It just means (when I have lots of money) I will have to go back to Japan, so it’s not all bad.

Because my flight was at 9:45 in the morning on 27th December I had to spend the night before in a motel in Seoul. For around £15 I got a gorgeous room all to myself, complete with en suite, a computer with access to the internet and a massive plasma screen television, oh and of course it had ondol (under floor heating). For around £15 a night in Osaka I got a tiny room, a TV with no English shows, a foot heater in a room with single glazing (see above)….oh and the website said shared bathroom-I didn’t realise it meant with the rest of the neighbourhood, I mean hostel. It is fairly safe to say that Korean Love Motels (free condoms and bad porn channels anyone!) have slowly destroyed the backpacker in me!

Osaka. 27th December

There are three things you should know about me when I travel. First, I like to plan, or at least have a vague idea of where I am going. This is very difficult without a guide book or in the case of Kyoto when the tourist information centre is closed for the holidays. Second, I don’t like asking strangers to take my picture. It only reinforces the fact I am alone. Third, I don’t like eating out alone. It’s a feeling I am slowly conquering, and if I have a book to read –see the first point-it’s easier to deal with. There probably are other factors too, such as if I can’t sleep I fidget, and I have a tendency to babble if I have been alone for too long. Oh, and I hate asking for directions and I get agitated if I screw up when I am the leader. But hey, no one is perfect.

I had hoped to find a guide book in Osaka so I wasted half a day looking for a book shop (I managed to find a guide book for Germany in Spanish, but nothing relevant for this trip.) When I went back to my hostel that evening there was actually a copy of the Lonely Planet guide there. So I spent the evening copying out the bits I needed into my notebook. I pretty much winged Osaka, which is definitely a new experience for me on the travel front.

After giving up on the quest to find a travel book I hopped on the subway to Osaka Castle (picture above). Like all good castles it had a moat, so I was impressed. Originally built by Hideyoshi Toyotomi, it’s safe to say the castle has been rebuilt a number of times following fire, natural disasters, and the bombings during World War Two. Not as impregnable as he first envisioned I am guessing. There was an interesting museum inside with the obligatory miniatures of “what the castle looked like, probably.” But the real treat was the 8th floor viewing deck where you can see the grounds and the sprawling nature of Osaka, as well as the surrounding mountains. Oh, and a Giant Ferris Wheel. I spent the evening walking in Tenjinbashi-suji, the longest shopping arcade in Japan at 2.6km. I just soaked in the atmosphere and window shopped.

Osaka. 28th December.

My first stop was Tennoji Zoo. In my entry that day I wrote in my journal that “I think I hate zoos.” Although I have to admit I did like the one in Taipei. What can I say, I am a walking paradox. While I appreciate that zoos are often vital in ensuring the survival of many species of animals, I just hate seeing wild animals in tiny, lifeless enclosures being forced to move around for spoilt children and their parents who tap impatiently on the glass. At this zoo one pig had more space than the polar bear, I know the ice caps are melting but that’s doesn’t mean enclosures have to replicate reality (it’s not as if real ice is made of plastic).


My next stop was the park next to the zoo which had an abandoned feel to it in the cold. I saw my first of many Japanese Gardens, and I was very impressed. It was extremely well kept and felt serene and peaceful. The Lonely Planet guide had mentioned when things were closed over the holiday period, so to avoid disappointment I skipped over those entries. Unfortunately, it didn’t mention that the Open Air Museum of Ancient Japanese Farmhouses (hey, I like old things!) was closed, a fact I would have also found out if I had been more observant at the subway station. I guess it was all good exercise though.

I ended the day at the Umeda Sky Building, which has been dubbed a “space age version of the Arc de Triomphe.” It was definitely the highlight of Osaka for me, particularly as I arrived in time for the sunset over the city. There is definitely more individuality in Japanese architecture than in Korea. Plus, spending a couple of hours on the subway made it very apparent that Japanese fashion is a lot more interesting and edgier than Korean fashion-at least in my eyes.

Next stop was Kyoto, as you'll see in Part Two.

Daedunsan Hike-Watch Out For The Spike!

Winter has reached the shores of South Korea complete with snow, minus temperatures and ajummas concerned about my health because I don’t get cold. With still no sign of a new schedule I have been making the most of the weekends.

Last Saturday (6th December) I went hiking with Adventure Korea at Daedunsan, a provincial park in Jeollabuk-do. It is described in the Lonely Liar as “one of Korea’s most scenic mountain areas” and for once the guide book gets it right. The rocky peaks offer spectacular views of the surrounding countryside. Plus the combination of steel stairwells, cable bridges and rocks along with the terrible duo of snow and ice made for an interesting day of trying to stay upright. Some of us didn’t have suitable footwear so at the lunch stop we had to purchase crampons (spikes) for the bottom of our shoes. More on those babies later.

This was my third trip with Adventure Korea, and while each has been thoroughly enjoyable, my one complaint is the way in which they rush you. Fair enough the guides have a schedule they want to stick to, but particularly on a snowy, rocky mountain peak 878 metres above sea level, being told “hurry up” is almost as annoying as being told to “be careful” after you have fallen over.

We took a cable car ride over half way up the mountain, and then got to experience the stairs-the never, ending amount of stairs! It disconcerting watching middle aged Koreans bounce down the slippery stairs with the agility of mountain goats, leaving a waft of a soju cloud behind them, as you huff and puff up the stairs like an obese person at a bakery.

On the way to the top we got to experience a 50 metre long cable bridge seemingly balanced on two rocky peaks. One of our guides thought it would be funny to shake the bridge, which ultimately saw my friend Maja and her friend Erin head back down to the bus. Then there was a very steep stairway, check out the picture, before we reached the peak.

After a brief photo opportunity at the peak we had to start the climb down, spikes on. That’s when the trouble started. My spikes refused to stay on no matter how tight I had them and while the trek down started easy enough we were soon led into a ravine, and that’s where the real fun started. Suffice to say rocks, ice and spikes are not a good combination, as the below picture shows. I was frustrated with the spikes, and had to keep readjusting them and doing them back up, so I was towards the back of the group, on my own when I took a tumble and did this to myself. Ouch!

An hour later we were twenty minutes from the bus, I befriended a lovely Canadian guy, who had much longer legs then me-our conversation meant I kept up with his pace-an act that saw me in agony for the next two days as my legs have become accustomed to not doing much. We were the first back to the bus though, even though I lost a spike towards the end of the hike. Good times.

But the trip served as a reminder for how much beauty Korea has to offer, and how much I enjoy hiking (at my own pace!). Also, how clumsy I am!

Taipei....Made in Taiwan!

Since my schedule has officially had enough changes to qualify for the Guinness Book of Records I figured I would make the most of my free time. So I booked myself on a flight to Taipei, Taiwan for a three day weekend and I am extremely glad that I did. With so much free time on my hands I have been spending my wages down town in Hongseong on stuff I don’t necessarily want or need, so it made a lot more sense to travel to a new place and spend money there instead! Like with Hong Kong I thoroughly recommend Taipei as a travel destination, it has museums, temples, delicious food, bustling night markets, beautiful gardens, a lush zoo, a fabulous transport system and the tallest completed building in the world (at the moment)! Oh, and the weather was nice and warm, oh and dry too!

Friday 14th November.
Once I arrived in Taipei I went straight to the hostel (Camels’ Oasis) and dropped my bag off, and then I got stuck in with the sightseeing! The Metro (MTR) in Taipei is very comprehensive and all of the major sights are accessible from it. I particularly liked the above ground lines, as they are a great way to sightsee and catch glimpses of Taipei 101 and general city life. Plus the EasyCard saved a lot of time, effort and money. I was most impressed by the queuing at stations, and the waiting until others have disembarked before getting on. If you have ever experienced the subway in Korea you will understand why, the chaos and death stares from impatient ajummas are a story in themselves.


My first stop was the National Palace Museum, home to lots of ancient Chinese artefacts. Bizarrely every room I went into was populated by a tour group of Koreans! Perhaps it’s because I tune into the language, but I definitely notice Koreans more readily when I am outside of South Korea now. I then moved onto the first of five temples that I visited, Bao-an Temple. Temples in Korea are extremely beautiful, but there is no denying that aesthetically they tend to look the same after the first two, so the temples in Taipei offered a nice contrast. Spirituality is very much alive in Taipei as most of temples were full of worshippers rather than tourists, and the temples house a range of Taoist, Buddhist and Chinese folk religion deities too.


Across the street from the Bao-an Temple was the Confucius Temple (see above), where I was lucky enough to get a free guided tour from ones of the helpers, who explained many of the features of the quiet, simple temple. The Greatest Master (as he is seen by many Chinese) wanted his disciples to think for themselves and study the world around them. As a teacher he sought education for more than just the elites and as a result of his work his birthday is celebrated as Teachers’ Day.



Of course I had to visit Taipei 101. Did I mention that it’s currently the tallest building in the world? 101 floors, 449 metres tall (not on a mountain likes some towers I could mention!), and lights that are colour co-ordinated depending on the day, what more could you want!? It was dark by the time I made it to the tower, but the views were still breathtaking. The outdoor deck was open on the 91st floor making me very aware of the fact I was literally as high as the clouds! I particularly like the thought behind the architecture, a mix of the modern and the traditional. It mimics the traditional pagoda shape and is split into eight sections. This is significant because eight is considered a lucky number in Chinese. The tower literally towers over the rest of Taipei, so you never really feel boxed in by skyscrapers.

Saturday 15th November.
The best thing about the Metro is you can plan your day based on where things are in relation to Metro stations and which line they are on, it makes decisions a lot easier. My first stop was the Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall, where I was greeted by “Johnny B. Goode” blaring out of some speakers. This immediately put me in a good mood, you all know how much I love Back to the Future! From the grounds of the Hall you get a really great view of Taipei 101 (I admit it, I am little bit obsessed). Sun Yat-sen was one of the founding fathers of modern China. I was once again lucky with my timing and caught the changing over of the guards, lots of twirling and stamping, but not a patch on Prague!

I then went to two temples in quick succession. First, possibly the most used temples in Taipei, Longshan Temple (see above). There were lots of people making offerings to their deities, and a lot of incense being burnt. It was also a good place for me to sit and people watch for a while. The next temple, Tien-ho was literally in the middle of a busy shopping district, you just walk down a busy street and there is the entrance to a small, but charming temple. I avoided the shops that surrounded this temple, though Taipei does look like a bit of a heaven for shoppers.



The Botanical Gardens were very lush and green, and they felt very tropical with all the palm trees. Again it made a nice contrast with the autumn colours of South Korea, and seemed like a nice place to get always from the stresses of city-life. Right next door was the National Museum of History, which was less about history and more about ancient Chinese art. There was a good exhibit on coffee houses though and the impact of western cultural and Japanese occupation.

A ten minute walk from the MTR Zhishan station found me in a gorgeous hill-top park with you’ve guessed it, another temple (Hueiji Temple)! The temple was striking, perhaps more enticing than the view of Taipei from the top of the hill, which again demonstrated the sheer scale of Taipei 101. My next stop, as the sun went down, was the Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall. The monument is surrounded by a massive park and the Hall and statue are very grandiose and seemed almost fitting of a President whose life and politics are now under scrutiny from both historians and Taiwanese politicians figuring out the directions Taiwan will take.


After a quick shower and change of clothes back at the hostel, I headed out to the Shilin Night Market, home to a wide variety of food and street vendors. This was perhaps the one place I missed having company, as I haven’t quite mastered the art of eating out alone. Plus because of the nice weather the food stalls and streets were overcrowded with people. But it was definitely a feast on the senses-particularly the stinky tofu, which I didn’t brave.

Sunday 16th November.

I was rudely awoken by the person in the bunk below me in the hostel. His alarm was My Sharona, and after he let it run for the tenth time I got up, packed my bag and checked out. This was the same idiot who asked me why I was going to bed so early on a Saturday night!? With the clouds as dark as my mood at this point I headed straight to the zoo. Thankfully after a light drizzle the weather perked up, and so did my mood when I saw how nice the zoo was. The layout was easy to navigate, the enclosures looked like some thought had gone into them and there was real ice in the penguin enclosure not rocks posing as ice! I wandered around for a good three hours before heading back to the centre of Taipei and on to the airport. One gorgeous sunset from the plane later and I was back in South Korea.

I am so glad that I took the opportunity while I could, and I would thoroughly recommend a three day weekend in Taipei if you ever get the chance.

A Weekend in the Nineties......I mean Daejeon.

The very first weekend of November was spent in the city of Daejeon (not to be confused with Daecheon-which is a beach town in the same province, Chungcheongnam-do). Despite the fact everyone always gets off the train in Hongseong there isn’t a direct line between Hongseong and Daejeon, So on the Saturday morning we caught the train up to Cheonan and then got another train back down to Daejeon. The best thing about this was the omelette and cheese slice toast we grabbed in Cheonan. 맛있어요! Oh and the umpteenth conversation me and Rachel have had about food we miss from home!


When we arrived in Daejeon we took the subway to the World Cup Stadium to watch Daejeon Citizens vs. Daegu FC. The stadium wasn’t exactly bursting with fans but there was a pretty good atmosphere, even from all ten of the Daegu fans! Plus, tickets were only a fiver, which meant we could enjoy the match with a can of Cass and some noodles at half time. Yep, I am living on the wild side over here. We discovered that most of the players would have a good career as K-Drama actors or Olympic divers. For some of the game it felt a bit like being at a boyband concert, there was a small group of screaming school girls behind us who felt the need to yelp at the most ridiculous times. Nevertheless, it was a pretty entertaining match even with the game ending in goalless draw.

We had a nice chilled out evening once we had found a motel near the main train station. We ate out at a delicious Japanese restaurant, drank steamed milk, watched Body of Lies at the cinema and had another beer at a quiet bar. One of my pet peeves with bars in Korea is the fact you often have to purchase안주-a side dish to accompany the alcohol. If you don’t buy a side dish you can be refused service as it’s seen as the same as a cover charge. We just ordered the cheapest fruit dish on the menu-which turned out to be tinned peaches in ice. Korean drinking culture is a very sharing one, from the 안주 to the “one-shot” with the soju to the fact you can’t get a simple mixer (vodka and coke etc.) you have to spend £35 buying the whole bottle of vodka. All this is great if you are in a big group and plan on getting nice and merry, but it’s not so fun if you just want a quiet drink because that normally leaves you one option-beer.


On the Sunday we took a trip back to the nineties, 1993 to be exact, when we visited the Expo Park. Lonely Liar puts a nice glossy spin on it when it describes the “space-age pavilions” of the park, maybe they would have been space age in 1893, but even with, or perhaps because of, S Club 7 and Bon Jovi blaring out of the speakers (!) the Park felt dilapidated and unloved. You definitely got the impression it was a popular place in its hey-day (emphasis on day), as there were more toilets than you could ever want just waiting forlornly for the coach loads of people that will never come. Getting to the park and the Science Museum opposite served as a reminder that South Korea doesn’t get a lot of English speaking tourists, like in Gwangju there was no English signage for the buses and the confusing signs and maps gave the impression that buses stop in places that they don’t. Nevertheless, once I had eaten (I was very hungry that day) we managed to make it fun, and the autumn leaves gave the rusted up park some much need colour.

Update on my schedule-I am still only teaching the three one-on-ones Monday to Thursday, and as far as I am aware still getting paid the same amount. Obviously I shouldn’t complain about this too much, but in the back of my mind I know that my schedule will change again any minute. So it feels like I am constantly on edge. November has flown by so far though and I am nearly at the seven month mark. I guess I am just taking away different skills from this experience than I was expecting to.

We are sold out of Seoul/Soul jokes........

As I will explain in my next entry, I have a lot of free time on my hands so you can expect lots of updates. First though, I want to take a trip down memory lane and tell you about a trip I took a whole 2 weeks ago. On 18-19 October me and Viro met up with Rachel and Paul in Seoul. Once a month Rachel and Paul have a session in the capital city for the kindergarten, I meet them once they have finished and we explore Seoul. It’s a good way to experience the city, and slowly but surely we are seeing all the major sites, museums, and Yongsan Motels!

This weekend was no different. We went ice-skating at Lotte World, we went shopping in the malls of Dongdaemun (minus Paul who went to the cinema), we checked out some free art galleries, we explored a palace (Deoksugung) and we went to Chongdong Theatre for a traditional Korean cultural experience.

Ice-skating was good fun, and surprisingly I managed to stay upright. For any of you who have seen me on dry land you know this was no mean feat! Plus since it was the second time I have been ice-skating for around seven years, so I was chuffed! Since May, Rachel and I have promised ourselves a shopping spree in Dongdaemun, home to cheap malls and pineapple sticks. This weekend was that spree, though Viro spent the most. I should mention that despite any weight I have lost I am still considered “large” by Korean standards, which is why I am half grateful for “free size.” Some things are just ridiculously small, but the fashion at the moment seems to be baggier clothes which fit ok on me. I felt a bit violated when trying to buy a belt, but all of us were pleased with our purchases and Dongdaemun (which is the Great East Gate) looked beautiful all lit up when we made our way to the subway station.

We met back up with Paul in Yongsan and went to our new favourite motel, characterised by hard pillows and a Christmas tree in the lobby. Located on the edge of the red light district, but just a minute away from Yongsan station and 30,000 won a night, it’s become our regular motel when we visit Seoul. After a quick fashion show of our new clothes, (the motel is worth it if only for its mirrors!) we watched some Simpsons and went to sleep.

Rachel had booked us tickets for the theatre on the Sunday afternoon, so to fill time before the show we checked out the area around City Hall. I visited Deoksugung palace earlier in the year, but I still think it’s an impressive palace and it has the added bonus of the changing of the guard ceremony. It’s always nicer when you experience a place with other people too. We also went to the Seoul Museum of Art, free admission and lots of modern art. Before we headed to the show we grabbed some food at a cutlet restaurant, none of us braved the “spawn of kimchi,” though we all wanted to know what it was! 

The show, Miso (Smile), was really interesting, a combination of traditional Korean songs, dance and instruments meant to capture the various emotions that a woman experiences when she is in love. I have to say I particularly enjoyed the drumming and the fan dance, and probably didn’t fully appreciate the underlying message. Definitely recommend it though.

After that action packed weekend we grabbed the train back from Yongsan. It was packed, so we only managed to get one seat. Me and Viro found ourselves a spot on the floor of the café carriage (number 4 on both the Saemaul and Mugunghwa) and didn’t leave it until we got back to Hongseong. Definitely another weekend for the “good times” pile!

Since my next entry will be about the Hagwon, just wanted to say now, I am very pleased and relieved that Obama is going to be the next President of the United States.

Chungcheongnam-do-Good Times!

So, essentially I have been feeling inadequate as a teacher, I am fed up with all the schedule changes, and I losing my patience with the whole mess. I don’t want to dwell on this negativity too much though, and hopefully things will turn around soon. I have some very good friends here in Hongseong, and some very supportive people in various locations around the world who put up with my woes and worries despite the many miles separating us. I know how lucky I am and I am more grateful than most of you will ever know. You will be pleased to read that this last week has been an improvement, and hopefully things can only get better from here on in. I think it’s a shame that my time at the hagwon probably won’t be remembered with a warm, fuzzy glow, but it’s safe to say that my weekends will.

As I mentioned in my last entry, the weekends have definitely been a handy distraction from my nightmare of a job. Since I arrived here, the other British teachers at my hagwon, Rachel and Paul, have let me tag along with them on a lot of their weekends away, all of which have been great. Even Daegu despite all the rain and being hit by a scooter on the pavement (it was worth it just for all the steamed milk)! The last couple of weekends have been no exception, and with the added company of Viro in both Haemi and Seoul, my spirits have been lifted and the good times in South Korea just keep rolling.

Saturday 11 October, Cheonan, The Independence Hall of Korea.

Between 1910 and 1945 the whole of Korea (for you non-history or common knowledge buffs this was before the North/South divide!) was annexed by Japan. The Imperial Japanese Army was brutal to both the Korean people and Korean culture and society. Korean women were forced into sex slavery and kidnapped for the Japanese army as “comfort women.” Human experiments took place on live Koreans and the army burnt down Korean villages, temples and palaces. The Korean language was banned and there was complete censorship of the media. In addition, the confiscation of land, food and cultural assets, forced name changes and Imperial education were just some of the war crimes that Japan commited during this time. This period is often seen as a shameful part of Korea’s recent history and has led to a strong rise in anti-Japanese sentiment and Korean nationalism. The Independence Hall of Korea is essentially a massive demonstration of this, mingled with the hope of a North and South reconciliation. Lots of museums, free entrance, quiet monuments, a giant sign for some toilets and of course the obligatory stairs made for both a reflective and enjoyable day out. It was also the day that me and Rachel proved once and for all that women are better drivers. Ok, me not so much, but Paul had the most crashes in our little vehicle!

Sunday 12 October, Haemi, Seosan Haemieupseong Fortress.

A short bus ride out of Hongseong with Rachel, Paul and Viro saw us in the small and not so quiet town of Haemi. Not so quiet because unbeknownst to us there was a Military Heritage Festival taking place inside the Fortress grounds. The Festival provided some good entertainment though and if it hadn’t been taking place we certainly wouldn’t have met some sojued up old Korean men later that day.

Haemi Fortress was built between 1417 and 1421 to protect against invasion from Japanese pirates. It now serves as one of the best preserved sites of Joseon era Fortress architecture. A lot of the historical importance of Haemi Fortress comes from the fact around a thousand Catholics were executed there after the Byeong-in Persecution of 1866. During this time the presence of Christians was equated with the threat of foreign intervention in Korean culture. In a crackdown to prevent foreign “contamination” French missionaries were executed as were a large proportion of native converts. At Haemi, Catholics were hung on trees for their beliefs by their hair. The fortress and the fine company made for a nice day out, and it was a good place to enjoy the last of the warm weather and sunshine until next year.

Torture-it's not big and it's not clever.

Before we headed back to Hongseong we grabbed a bite to eat, seafood barbeque (“I am not too keen on seafood,” I said after we sat down). We were surrounded by two groups of elderly Korean men who were a bit sojued up, and keen on trying out their English. When you drink with Koreans it’s a “one shot” culture, essentially everyone says cheers and takes a shot together and you can’t leave a glass empty. So, me and Viro watched as Rachel and Paul sunk the soju like true Koreans. As one point Paul and his gentleman friend linked arms and Paul ended up with the residue of the shot of Soju on his head! Then we went back to Hongseong, headed to the bowling alley (look for the building with the giant pin on the roof) and did a bit of bowling. Good times.

Next time on “The Travels of Jo” Ice capers in Seoul, six month reflections, and a moan about something random no doubt!

A Whirlwind Weekend in Hong Kong.

To be honest I am not usually a massive fan of big cities. Some people love the anonymity, variety and fast pace that living in a big city provides. As a rule big cities are where you find the good jobs and best money, so people often have to sacrifice clean air, open space and a more relaxed outlook in order to survive or prosper. On my three weekend visit (3 October to 5 October) Hong Kong really impressed me, and has left me gushing about how great it is. As clichéd as it sounds, Hong Kong provides a melting pot of Chinese and Western cultures, with all the resulting contradictions. Plus, the skyscrapers in Hong Kong didn’t feel like they were overwhelming me (which is the impression I was left with in New York, or more specifically Manhattan), and despite the fact the city is geared largely towards the financial world and shopping I had an absolutely incredible time.

I was very lucky in that I had a fabulous tour guide, Alice, my awesome room mate when I was studying at Washu. Even though we only had a short three day weekend she made sure I saw all the major sights and made sure I had a great time, and for that I am so grateful. All weekend there was a level one typhoon warning (level 8 is the typhoon) which meant lots of rain and mist, but luckily the weather was gorgeous on the Saturday.

On the Friday we went to Victoria’s Peak on Hong Kong Island. It was windy and misty, but I could still appreciate the impressiveness of the skyscraper laden skyline. I liked the individuality of most of the buildings. We then went to Times Square and some of the shopping malls around that area. Seriously, there must have been a shopping mall on every corner, and everything was ridiculously cheap. I have no idea how I am going to get everything home next April.

On the Saturday Alice had to work for a while so I went to the Harbour in Kowloon and admired the skyline from a whole different perspective. We went back there in the evening and watched the 8pm lights and laser show-the buildings are lit up and the skyline is displayed like some really expensive Christmas decoration, but it sure looks good! Earlier in the day I got a ferry over to Wan Chai to check out the Reunification Monument (from 1997 when the British gave Hong Kong back to China) and the statute of the Golden Bauhinia, the symbol of Hong Kong. After the return journey on the Star Ferry, Alice’s friend Nora met me and took me to the Hong Kong Museum of History, and provided a more human telling of the history of Hong Kong. I get bored reading all the signs, and like Alice, Nora is lovely so it was really refreshing. Alice took me clubbing in Central, along with Nora and 4 other friends. It was a really good day!

On the Sunday we (Alice and I) checked my bag in, despite the fact it was tiny, to save me carrying it around and to give us more time sightseeing! I felt a bit daft checking in such a small bag, but when I got back to Incheon and saw how small some of the bags were on the conveyer belt of doom I felt a bit better. We got on the bus and made our way to Ngong Ping, Lautau Island to see the big bronze Buddha statue and the temple there. The weather had taken a turn at this point, but I was very fortunate in that it cleared once we reached the temple, and we managed to get some good photos and our fortunes told before getting the bus back to the airport and saying our goodbyes. The plane was then delayed for 3 hours because of the typhoon winds, but I was still on a natural high from having such a good weekend.

Food wise I got to experience sushi, fish balls, hot pot and pig ear…I loved the first three, the pig ear not so much! There was so much choice in Hong Kong, something I always miss in Korea. I do like Korean food but sometimes it would be nice to have Chinese, Thai, Indian, Japanese, Italian or Mexican (could go on) food without having to trek to Seoul and spend a lot more on food than I am used to out here. But if you ever make it to Hong Kong make sure you have a hot pot. Basically in the middle of the table there is a simmering pot of stock-you can pick a couple if you have a big group who can’t agree, and you cook the ingredients (variety of meats, dumplings and vegetables) yourself. It’s delicious.

One of the biggest drawbacks to working in a hagwon is the limited amount of time off I get. As I have said before, I get 8 days off as holiday in this 12 months-as well as public holidays. Hagwons don’t have summer holidays or winter holidays so while I am here I don’t have a couple months off to sample the delights and beauty of Asia. I am extremely limited in the travel I can do outside of Korea as a result, but I am so glad I got the chance to see Alice again and visit Hong Kong.

Simply Seoul.

“We are tough on slogans, tough on the causes of slogans.” As said by Bill Bailey in his Part Troll stand-up routine when discussing how to describe Britain to foreigners. “Oh and we have nectar points.”

I realise that with all my entries about the kids and my apartment woes I have neglected to write about one of the subjects closest to my heart-travel. I really should blog about the amazing places in South Korea that I have been to so far. But I also wanted to introduce you to the fascinating world of city slogans in “Korea Sparkling!”

The slogan for Seoul is “Hi Seoul, Soul of Asia.” Apparently the logic behind it is thus:

The name combines the greeting "Hi" with the name of the city "Seoul,” and the new brand aims to convey a friendly image of Seoul to the global community, and to promote harmony and unity among Seoul citizens. (That’s a lot of pressure to put on a greeting and a place name!) Since "hi" is a homophone of "high,” the brand offers a new vision for Seoul and reflects the city's commitment to make Seoul one of the world's leading cities.

At least once a month I go to Seoul, the nation’s capital city, and whilst the concrete jungle has its highlights I definitely wouldn’t call it the “Soul of Asia.” That would be a lot like calling “Oxford the hugs and kisses of Europe” because of the O (hug) and the X (kiss). The only time I would ever feel warm and fuzzy in Oxford would be if I was dressed in a bear costume.

With a population of over 10 million Seoul is one of the largest cities in the world. The city is considered one of the financial and cultural centres of East Asia, but I think the self proclaimed title the “Soul of Asia” may be stretching things just a little bit. While I appreciate and enjoy the combination of both the modern and the traditional that Seoul offers, I would be wary of claiming any city the Soul of Asia, or even narrowing it down-“Soul of East Asia” or “Soul of Korea.” Fair enough, for centuries Korea has been caught between its two big brothers-Japan and China, and now wants to step out of the shadows and onto the world stage. But it’s not going to achieve that through crappy slogans.

One of my pet peeves of big cities is the amount of travelling time spent on the tube. When it feels like half your day is spent underground and you have to climb the stairs to street level eyes squinting at the sun like a mole, it’s not the nicest welcome to a new place. The Metro in Seoul is everything you want from an underground transport system, it’s clean, efficient and easy to use once you figure out where you need to go. Mobile phones here are incredible-you can plan your route on it and get the shortest route and time it will take-all without going on the internet. Annoyingly they can also be used on the underground, but that generally only a problem when an old lady’s phone is ringing and she realises she’s never seen a mobile phone before. Getting from place to place in Seoul cheaply does require spending a couple of hours a day underground. Admittedly, sat in a carriage surrounded by Koreans does allow you to make some acute observations of Korean underground etiquette, from the pushing and shoving by those getting on as you try to get off, to obsession with gadgets with large numbers of people watching the TV on their phone.

Despite this, once you arrive at your destination generally you will find something beautiful or interesting in Seoul, so it is worth the hassle. On my first visit to Seoul Rachel and Paul took me to Seoul Grand Park home of the zoo, which is surrounded by mountains and greenery, just on the outskirts of the city. Even from the centre of Seoul, you are only around an hour away from the true beauty of the Korean countryside and lion cubs!

So far I have been to two of the five palaces in Seoul (Changdeokgung see above and Deoksugung see below), and they were both outstanding examples of traditional palace architecture, despite the determined and successful attempts by the Japanese to burn them down. Deoksugung also shows the influence of the West on some of its architecture and it is right in the centre of Seoul, so you can see the modern skyscrapers dwarfing but not overshadowing the traditional.

Shopping wise there is so much choice, from the multitude of bargains at Dongdaemun, to some of the brand names at I’Park (Yongsan Station) and COEX Mall, to the market on the streets of Insadong. When you get hungry there are infinite restaurants and street vendors selling delicious food, though largely you take your pick from Korean food or……Korean food. In Itaewon there is a great Indian buffet…sooo good (drool! Thanks Viro for introducing me to this fabulous place!). The Seoul nightlife I have experienced so far is limited to Gangnam and Hongdae but both areas had a lot to offer, not least for the synchronised hip-hop dancing. Plus once you get tired of clubbing, you can always play a game of pool or 5 in a cheap billiards/pocket ball joint.

South Korea has so much to offer, and isn’t a typical tourist attraction for Westerners. While I don’t think Seoul will ever be the “Soul of Asia” it is definitely worth a visit or two or three.